Driving Emergency - Run-Off-Road

                                                    Driving emergency tips from AAA

AAA StartSmart - Distracted Driving

Follow a group of six high school students and their parents as they attend the AAA StartSmart Academy where they learn how to develop safe driving habits from an over-the-top instructor named Crash — short for "Creating Responsible Automobile Safety Habits".

Cognitive Distraction

Think you know all about distracted driving? Think again! New research reveals that voice-activated in-car technologies dangerously undermine driver attention.

CRASH TEST Pickup Trucks – Ford F150, Toyota Tundra, RAM 1500, Nissan Titan

The majority of pickups recently put through the passenger-side small overlap front test struggled to maintain their structure, but two trucks — the 2019-2020 Ford F-150 and the 2019-2020 Nissan Titan — earn a good rating. ► These results are valid only for models sold in the USA

✅ Source: IIHS

Corby's Collision - "Hands On" Owner with Happy Employees

"Hands On" Owner / Operator Paul Troutner talks about happy employees and happy customers. http://corbysvacaville.com/

10 Things Everyone Should Know About Tires

By Eric Peters, Automotive Columnist

You probably know tires are made of rubber — but how much more do you know? Here’s a run-through of some important tire-related terminology:

1) Aspect ratio

This technical-sounding term refers to the relationship between the width of a tire and the height of the tire’s sidewall. High-performance “low profile” tires have “low aspect ratios” — meaning their sidewalls are short relative to their width. This provides extra stiffness and thus better high-speed handling and grip — but also tends to result in a firmer (and sometimes, harsh) ride. “Taller” tires tend to provide a smoother ride and better traction in snow.

2) Contact Patch

As your tires rotate, only a portion of the total tread is actually in contact with the ground at any given moment.  This is known as the contact patch.  Think of it as your tire’s “footprint.” Sport/performance-type tires are characterized by their wider footprint — more tread is in contact with the ground — which provides extra grip, especially during hard acceleration on dry pavement and during high-speed cornering.

3) Treadwear indicators

These are narrow bands built into the tread during manufacturing that begin to show when only 1/16 of the tire’s tread remains. Also called wear bars, treadwear indicators are there to provide an obvious visual warning that it’s time to shop for new tires.

4) Speed ratings

An alpha-numeric symbol you’ll find on your tire’s sidewall that tells you the maximum sustained speed the tire is capable of safely handling. An H-rated tire, for example, is built to be safe for continuous operation at speeds up to 130 mph. Most current model year family-type cars have S (112 mph) or T (118 mph) speed ratings. High performance cars often have tires with a V (149 mph) or  ZR (in excess of 149 mph) speed rating. A few ultra-performance cars have W (168 mph) and even Y (186 mph) speed-rated tires.

5) Maximum cold inflation load limit

This refers to the maximum load that can be carried in a given vehicle with a given type of tires — and the maximum air pressure needed to support that load. In your vehicle’s owner’s manual, you should be able to find the recommended cold inflation load limit. It’s important not to exceed the load limit (or over or under-inflate the tires) as this can lead to stability/handling problems and even tire failure. Always check tire pressure “cold.” Driving creates friction which creates heat; as the tires warm up, the air inside expands, increasing the pressure. Measuring air pressure after driving can give a false reading; you may actually be driving around on under-inflated tires.

6) Load index

This number corresponds to the load carrying capacity of the tire. The higher the number, the higher the load it can safely handle. As an example, a tire with a load index of 89 can safely handle 1,279 pounds — while a tire with a load rating of 100 can safely handle as much as 1,764 pounds. It’s important to stick with tires that have at least the same load rating as the tires that came originally with the vehicle — especially if it’s a truck used to haul heavy loads or pull a trailer. It’s ok to go with a tire that has a higher load rating than the original tires; just be careful to avoid tires with a lower load rating than specified for your vehicle, even if they are less expensive. Saving a few bucks on tires is not worth risking an accident caused by tire failure.

7) Radial vs. bias-ply tire

Bias-ply tires have their underlying plies laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread; radials have their plies laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. That’s the technical difference. The reason radial tires are dominant today is that they help improve fuel efficiency and handling; they also tend to dissipate heat better than bias-ply tires. No modern passenger cars come with bias-ply tires these days and their use is generally not recommended. (Exceptions might include older/antique vehicles that originally came equipped with bias-ply tires. Some RVs also used bias-ply tires, etc.) It is very important never to mix radial and bias-ply tires; dangerously erratic handling may result.

8) LT and MS tires

These designations indicate “Light Truck” and “Mud/Snow” — and are commonly found on tires fitted to SUVs and pick-ups. LT-rated tires are more general purpose, built primarily for on-road use — while MS-rated tires typically have more aggressive “knobby” tread patterns designed for better off-road traction.

9) Temporary Use Only

Many modern cars come with so-called “space-saver” tires which are smaller and lighter than a standard or full-size spare tire. They are designed to leave more room in the trunk and be easier for the average person to handle when a roadside tire change becomes necessary. However, they are not designed to be used for extended (or high-speed) driving. Your car will probably not handle (or stop) as well while the Space Saver tire is on – and you should keep your speed under 55 mph and avoid driving on the tire beyond what’s absolutely necessary to find a tire repair shop where you can have your damaged tire repaired or replaced.

10) Treadwear, Traction and Temperature ratings

Each tire has three separate ratings for Treadwear, Traction and Temperature.

Traction ratings run from AA to A to B and C — with C being the lowest on the scale. The ratings represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement under controlled testing conducted by the government. C-rated tires are marginal and should be avoided. Never buy a tire with a Traction rating that isn’t at least equal to the minimum rating specified by the manufacturer of your vehicle.

Temperature ratings from A to B to C — with C being the minimum allowable for any passenger car tire. The ratings correspond to a given tire’s ability to dissipate heat under load; tires with lower ratings are more prone to heat-induced failure, especially if driven at high speeds (or when overloaded). As with Traction ratings, never buy a tire with a Temperature rating that’s less than specified for your vehicle.

Treadwear ratings differ from Traction and Temperature ratings in that they aren’t a measure of a tire’s built-in safety margin. Instead, these ratings — represented by a three digit number — give you an idea of the expected useful life of the tire according to government testing. A tire with a Treadwear rating of 150, for example, can be expected to last about 1.5 times as long as a tire with a Treadwear rating of 100. These are just guides, however. Your tires may last longer (or not) depending on such factors as how you drive, whether you maintain proper inflation pressure and rotate the tires per recommendations — and so on.

Comments?

www.ericpetersautos.com

Under The Hood - Tire Tread and Pressure

                        Check the tread and pressure to get the best performance from your tires

SAFE STEPS Road Safety: Seatbelts

We all have a role in road safety! So follow these SAFE STEPS to play your part and help save lives. - Wear your seatbelt - - Ensure all passengers wear seatbelts - - Safely secure children in car seats -

How to Deal with Roadside Emergencies

                                           Some tips on how to deal with roadside emergencies.

Four Common Automotive Collision Repair Insurance Questions

 

By Craig Pelton  | 

After an auto accident, it is important that you have your vehicle damage professionally repaired by a reputable collision repair shop. However, dealing with the insurance adjusters and finding the answers to your many questions can be overwhelming. This is why we have taken the time to answer some of the most common insurance questions that our clients ask during the collision repair process.

Does the insurance company choose where you should have your vehicle repaired? It is entirely your choice as to where you have your vehicle repaired after an accident. Your insurance company may try to steer you toward a preferred shop in their network, but the choice is up to you. In fact, state law prohibits these "steering" tactics. Don't feel pressure to work with a collision repair shop simply because your adjuster prefers them. Your vehicle is a big investment and you want to be sure that an experienced and reputable automotive collision repair shop expertly repairs any damage.

Once an insurance company makes an estimate, will I need to pay for any additional damage that is discovered during the repair process? An appraiser is only able to make an estimate for the damage that is visible. Once the vehicle is taken apart for repair, the technician will look for evidence of any further damage. He will inform the insurance company of any additional repairs that must be made. It is not unusual for there to be at least one supplement to the original estimate.

Should I choose the repair shop with the lowest price because insurance is paying? That old phrase, "You get what you pay for" is often the case when it comes to automotive collision repair. Just because a shop offers the lowest price, it does not necessarily mean that it is the best place to have your car repaired. The vehicles of today are quite complex so you want to be sure that you are working with repair technicians that can restore your vehicle to its pre-accident condition. This includes repairing the outside appearance as well as the safety equipment and special equipment found on modern vehicles. Your car is a big investment so you want to be sure that you receive the best quality automotive repairs available.

Will my car ever be the same? If you use a reputable collision repair shop, your vehicle should be returned to its pre-accident state. This includes returning the function, safety, performance and appearance of the vehicle to like-new condition. Be sure that your technicians use new, high-quality replacement parts. You should choose a shop that offers comprehensive warranties on all repairs. This is one way to guarantee that the customer is completely satisfied with their repaired vehicle.

Repairing your vehicle after a collision should not be a traumatic experience. Find an auto body shop in your area that is experienced in working with insurance companies. They can guide you through the process so you feel comfortable and secure every step of the way.

Craig Pelton is the owner of Worldwide Auto Body, a full-service auto paint and collision repair center located in Kernersville, NC.

Article Source: https://EzineArticles.com/expert/Craig_Pelton/1212530

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6767509

Should I Have My Car Repaired?

After an accident, consumers often wonder if having their car repaired is worth the time, money, effort and risk.

• "Won't my insurance rates go up?"
• "The damage isn't that bad... Can't I just wait and have it done later?"
• "I'm selling the car soon anyway so why bother?"

Recognizing that there are inherent costs of time and money it is still usually advisable to have vehicles repaired unless they are deemed a total loss by a qualified and trusted body shop or insurance adjuster. In a nutshell our typical advice is this: Have it repaired, via an insurance claim, at a trusted body shop. Have it repaired. First, unless it's deemed a total loss, have it fixed. Repaired cars retain their value when it comes time to sell. You might save money in the short run but lose even more when you go to sell it. Un-repaired cars typically deteriorate after an accident. Remember the second law of thermodynamics from science class? Unchecked everything tends toward greater disorder. Cracked paint allows for rust. Broken parts strain adjacent parts and can cause further damage or even make the car unsafe. In short, repaired cars hold their value and are safer for you, your loved ones and other drivers.and Via insurance Second, it is almost always better to run it through insurance - yours or the other parties - if at all possible. Many people fear making a claim thinking there will be a premium increase. Typically that only occurs if there are multiple claims in a short period of time. (And even then it usually takes months before the increase goes into effect.) Many companies now offer accident forgiveness which allows you a certain number of claims before the rates are at risk of going up. Your agent can typically tell you case by case the impact a claim will have on your premiums. It's at least worth a phone call to your agent. Since you pay for insurance you might as well use it. Think about your monthly premium more as an investment in your car that will allow you to get your vehicle fixed right when you need it. If you're not at fault your insurance company can fight for you better than you can fight for yourself. Yes, you'll have to pay your deductible after the repairs are completed but they can often recover that money if you're not at fault. In the auto body business we see this happen all the time. Insurance companies have the skills, knowledge and attorneys most of us couldn't afford. This is one of the reasons we pay them, right? If for any reason you are unable (or decide not to) use insurance many shops have an "Economy Repair" option. This is case by case and depends on the body shop but it never hurts to ask. After getting an estimate simply ask if there is any cheaper way to get the repairs done since you are not going through insurance. They may be able to find aftermarket parts or extend a self-pay discount. Use a trusted body shop Lastly, for the repairs find a reputable body shop to perform the repairs. There are a few things you can do to determine if a shop is reputable. I suggest you use all of these together rather than rely on just one. First, ask your insurance company who they recommend. Shops on insurance preferred repairer lists tend to be better monitored and have a longer track record of quality repairs. Second, check for reviews to see if the shop has good recommendations from other consumers and even consumer advocates like the Better Business Bureau (bbb.org). Typically there are also reviews online of reputable shops at sites like Google and Yelp. Just type the name of the shop into a search engine and reviews will typically be available for shops with a long track record of quality repairs. You can also get reviews or recommendations by asking friends of their experiences with a body shop. Finally, visit the shop, request an estimate and take the opportunity to simply look around. You will need to trust your gut on this one but shops that are clean, professional and orderly are more likely trustworthy than ones that are dirty, in disarray and have a rude staff. Hopefully you will not need the advice this article offers but if you find yourself in a collision I hope you will consider having your car repaired, via an insurance claim by a trusted body shop. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/3798181

If your car has been damaged in an accident bring it in to Corby's Collision! We have been in business for 47 years in Vacaville, California. When you do business with Corby's Collision you will not only deal with their qualified and professional staff but, also with Paul himself. He is an Owner/Operator and likes to be "hands on" with everything that goes in and out of the shop.

707-448-1696